Subject to ur vehicle voltage the best way to find a good 12v scource is with a test lamp with a 21watt globe in, volt meters testers can show 12 v and be kinda false not enough ampsQuote:
Originally Posted by kasher1979
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Subject to ur vehicle voltage the best way to find a good 12v scource is with a test lamp with a 21watt globe in, volt meters testers can show 12 v and be kinda false not enough ampsQuote:
Originally Posted by kasher1979
Yeah I don't think the connection is a problem. It is randomly shutting off and randomly doing the staticy voice and loosing the sensor connections. Then it might go for a few days and run fine. It seems very random and I am not able to get a pattern of figure out what's causing it.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinkydi
I am out of ideas. I changed all my connections and moved ground to closer location to the CPU.
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How about running the thing off of a "clean" power source, like a laboratory power supply?
Looks like it may end up coming to something like this.Quote:
Originally Posted by awj223
Most vehicle electrical problems start out with a bad ground, looks mean nothing. Best way to test your ground is via voltage drop, measure from a known good ground, use the battery terminal for convenience, the other lead at the ground point you are considering.
Max reading is .5 volts, but even that is bit a high in modern cars, I recommend < = .2 volts.
If you have that, the next thing to check is whether that voltage reading changes with temperature, if you have a multimeter with record fumction, you can just leave it hooked up and run the engine for a while,, then let it cool back down and check your max readings.
One common area that causes high voltage grounds on the entire vehicle is the negative cable where it connects to the engine block, particularly in snowbelt vehicles.
If your multimeter has an ammeter function you can take recorded readings of that also (as long as you're tapped into a power source rated <= the ammeter capability)
Hth.
This is all above my head to be honest. I have tried two ground locations and changed out fuse tapes etc. My radar detectors and the Laser Interceptor that I had all run perfectly in my car, so I am not sure what the deal is. AL is looking into it. We will see what they come up with. Whatever it is , it's something in the ALP that is not agreeing with my car obviously.Quote:
Originally Posted by FJR1300
Gotcha, well the only other thing I would add is to make sure that you aren't using a fuse that powers something with a highly variable power draw, like a blower motor for example. Some electronics are sensitive to that type of thing. I'm sure Tom will get you back up and running.
That is a good point and I was not even considering this. What switched circuit are you currently tapped into? Is the radio fuse a switched power circuit?Quote:
Originally Posted by FJR1300
No I dont believe the radio is switched on this vehicle. I have used two different power sources . I am not sure what the other one was but the issues have occured on both.Quote:
Originally Posted by BestRadarDetectors
The one I am using now is :
F39 5A* Daytime running lamps and headlamp control module ignition feed
He's already spending a lot of time helping me and PMing me. I have plenty support. I just know when theres a wild problem like this sometimes others can offer input like you did. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by FJR1300
Also try a direct power from the cigar lighter socket after market two wire one make sure u know which the powe and ground is
My lighter isn't a switch source or I would. However I am tempted to do this and just manually power my unit on and off because I know the cig light plug power wouldn't be interrupted.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinkydi
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It don't matter the switching side just plug the two wire bit in test for live wire and earth ,un plug wire what u want to test and plug in
Ok so got the manual and looked at fuses again. I took the fuse tap and put it in the power mirror circuit. I am positive this is a regular switched circuit and should not power down abruptly.
Does that sound like a good choice. ?
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Sorry can't say not familiar with the car that's why I suggested the cig lighter just thought a good scource and kinda un effected by other scources
So far so good. But the bad thing about trying to test this is it might go a week or two with no trouble and then suddenly act up with no warning.
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Mine used to give me error code six there is a thread some where and the behaviour was same as urs till one day on the road the code six came on and I stopped on th Rs took mi ages to get it going again and I to lost confidence replaced the flu and never looked bak thread may be in our oz sec but code six was send cpu for service
Kasher: Can you take pics of which switched fuse you're connected to? There is a switched fuse on the 2014 Ford Escape that was giving me issues during initial install, we had to move to a different switched fuse because of it, it was an intermittent issue. Also where do you have it grounded? My initial bolt I used for ground there was some plastic causing the ground to intermittently become loose as well.
Whoops, didn't see that :)Quote:
Originally Posted by kasher1979
That's the one I was using that was giving me issues HAH!Quote:
Originally Posted by kasher1979
The mirror fuse was giving you issues or the radio?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky225
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Daytime running light fuse, the one you're using currently. I forget what we switched it to to resolve it. I'll take a look at what I'm using now later.Quote:
Originally Posted by kasher1979
Hey guys, any update on this. I am curious to know what was causing the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky225
What car was behind you? My bet would be a Volvo or Mazda that was interfering with your system so the ALP alerted to the interference.
I will backtrack the video tracks and see if I merged ahead of a Volvo or Mazda.Quote:
Originally Posted by BestRadarDetectors