"Error 2"

[itwasntme]

Last night while sitting in traffic, at a standstill for about 10 min, I received a false Polliscan alert. About 4 min later I received a single "error 2" announcement. I only started using the ALP connect in ernest yesterday for a total of 4hrs drive time. 2hrs continuous driving to my destination with no falses and, no error 2s and 2 hrs continuous driving back home with one error 2 about an hour into my return trip. The error 2 alert was momentary and did not repeat itself. I power cycled the ALP about four times with no error messages. I continued driving approximately 1 hr with no more errors. The Polliscan alert I kind of expected eventually. I have the false rejection for that disabled. The parking sensor feature is disabled.

The error 2 is another story. Is it possible to get an error 2 and not have a problem with one of the sensors or their connections? Is it possible to get a "false" error 2? If I get the error 2 message does that mean a sensor is no longer working or, is it working unless I continue to get more error 2 messages? If a particular sensor has a problem, how would I know which sensor? Has anyone else gotten an error 2 in this manor?

I have been using the the standard control set up till this point for travel without issue. I have used the 1.3 connect version prior to yesterday only to verify a software updates and short testing sessions using a LIDAR. Before my trip yesterday I upgraded to the 1.4 version and lost the GPS speed indication on the application. I think that bugs being worked out though.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Pull a statistics file and it will show memorized positions and actual current positions, If one sensor is missing you will know which sensor triggered the error. If stats shows both configurations are the same it means that all sensors are reporting and working and at one point a sensor did not call home when expected. It can happen but you will need to just keep an eye on it.

[itwasntme]

Thanks for the quick response Tom. I pulled the stats. Everything appears to be as it should. One question though. I notice the parking detection range is at "9" in the stats. I selected the parking detection disabled option. Can both of these settings be in place simultaneously? I went back to the ALP site and reentered all the settings, made sure parking detection was disabled and downloaded it to the ALP. I then pulled another stats file and it still shows parking detection range "9".

[BestRadarDetectors]

Thanks for the quick response Tom. I pulled the stats. Everything appears to be as it should. One question though. I notice the parking detection range is at "9" in the stats. I selected the parking detection disabled option. Can both of these settings be in place simultaneously? I went back to the ALP site and reentered all the settings, made sure parking detection was disabled and downloaded it to the ALP. I then pulled another stats file and it still shows parking detection range "9".

"9" is the Disabled Option....

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Disable (Disable holds the 9th value)

[ballaz]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am also getting the error 2 message multiple times during my commute. There is not error upon 1st power up of the ALP, but during my commute the error occurs several times. I pulled the stats file and it shows dual heads being connected and functioning properly. Any advice on how to rectify this problem? Firmware: 4.5.2, sensors connected to port F1 and F3 because F1 nad F2 was giving me the same error 2 message. All other setting are factory default.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am also getting the error 2 message multiple times during my commute. There is not error upon 1st power up of the ALP, but during my commute the error occurs several times. I pulled the stats file and it shows dual heads being connected and functioning properly. Any advice on how to rectify this problem? Firmware: 4.5.2, sensors connected to port F1 and F3 because F1 nad F2 was giving me the same error 2 message. All other setting are factory default.

You cant run ALP with F1 & F3 as ALP will always be looking for F2. ALP requires F1 & F2 and the use of F3 is only used if all 3 heads are used and when that is the case the center head needs to be connected to the F2 port so that the heads are in order. Put the heads back to F1 & F2, Do a factory reset and if the error occurs again immediately pull a stats file to see which head is tripping the error.

[RedRocket]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I am also getting the error 2 message multiple times during my commute. There is not error upon 1st power up of the ALP, but during my commute the error occurs several times. I pulled the stats file and it shows dual heads being connected and functioning properly. Any advice on how to rectify this problem? Firmware: 4.5.2, sensors connected to port F1 and F3 because F1 nad F2 was giving me the same error 2 message. All other setting are factory default.Since I upgraded to the same f/w & also added Hi-Fi option recently at the same time, I too have encountered this Error 2 w/ the double flashing red LED on Control Set.I've found it to be caused by something in close proximity to 1 or more of the Front 3 Sensors when parked & powering "ON" the Priority after the engine is running.I believe it is just a misinterpreted "nearby object" Parking sensor function.By backing away & entering the roadway,the Error 2 clears itself within a second or two.

My Parking sensor "set point" is at #3 distance.
As you didn't mention it happened at home,but only during your commute...when "in" traffic are you stopping or possible traveling (tail-gating) to closely to other vehicles ?
What is the "set point" of your Parking distance function in the Set-Up table ?

[shanetrainST]

Error 2

Every time I come across someone running LI's my system gives that error. Easy explanation

[BestRadarDetectors]

Is everyone receiving Error 2 running HFi? Hifi does consume a lot more current than the standard controller. If install is not solid with good solid power connections we have seen some strange errors.

[RedRocket]

Is everyone receiving Error 2 running HFi? Hifi does consume a lot more current than the standard controller. If install is not solid with good solid power connections we have seen some strange errors.Ok,I took another look at my Error 2 situation moments ago.

For me it is definitely caused by the proximity of the Lilac bush near the Front of my car where I normally park in my driveway.With my Parking "set-point" at #3 in the Set-Up table I cannot get any closer than 19-20ft spacing distance to that Lilac bush (& most likely any other object) when powering "ON" the Priority.Besides the double red LED flashing,the HiFi audio reports - "Error 2,lose or disconnected wire cable or defective sensor" !

I also found the Priority WILL NOT power "OFF" (when in Error 2 state) by holding down the power button on the Control Set pad.I had to pull the fuse that is in the +12v feed to the Control Box(CPU).I rolled my car backwards increasing the spacing distance to the bush to ~25ft...re-inserted the fuse & powered "ON" the Priority & it booted-up w/o the Error 2 just as it should.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Could be a bug in the HiFi controller. We will look into it. Can you dig out that Bush and send it to me? :)

[RedRocket]

Could be a bug in the HiFi controller. We will look into it. Can you dig out that Bush and send it to me? :)Ahhhh....HELL NO ! :distant:
(I love the fragrance of the flowers in the Spring blossoming period)

[RedRocket]

Could be a bug in the HiFi controller.Here's something else I remember now-

From my early adoption of the AL-P in 2013 I've always had my Parking "set-point" @ #3 & have never changed it.Early on,only time when I would get the "Proximity" notice was when I was ~3-4ft from an object.The only time I would ever receive a proximity warning earlier (at wider spacing) like ~6-8ft was when behind a highly reflective surface like a P/U chrome bumper or a White/Silver metallic car paint.
Obviously,that told me back then that there is no T.O.F.(Time of Flight) measurement for distance being calculated,but rather an IR "intensity" level feedback is actually being measured which is why that chrome bumper gives a warning at the farther spacing difference.

So that means some measurement parameter has been altered in either the recent f/w 4.5.2 release or it's something in the HiFi controller as you mentioned.


Update -
When returning home this aftetnoon I left the AL-P 'ON' & until parked very close to the lilac bush & no Alert or Error 2 occurred sitting there for 2-3min.Then turned 'OFF' the AL-P...waited ~20sec. & turned it back 'ON' & got an immediate Error 2 w/ same conditions as described in previous Post earlier.
Appears that the 1st IR pulse output at turn-on may have increased photon energy output causing objects return signal to indicate it's much closer than it really is.

[ballaz]

Put the heads back to F1 & F2, did a factory reset and the heads continue to give Error 2 prompts at the same spots in my morning commute. Pulled stats immediately after error 2 codes came up as I know where to expect them during my morning commute. Stats stated no error with F1 or F2. I hypothesized it has to do with the position of the sun in relation to the heads. It seems to occur when the sun is directly in front of me. I tested my theory by finding a stretch of interstate which put me directly in front of the sun. This resulted in an Error 2 code until i turned. I drove that same stretch of road in the evening multiple times with no error 2 codes. I never had these problems when the ALP was 1st installed. Additionally, this problem did not occur with the LI's that i was previously using (not speaking negatively of the ALP). I do not have the Hifi module. My setup currently is all stock with laser defense and the Error 2 codes continue to occur. I do not wish to be at a disadvantage or have the error occur when I am the target LEO. Please advise on how to resolve. My ALP is HW version 2 received it Dec. 2014.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Put the heads back to F1 & F2, did a factory reset and the heads continue to give Error 2 prompts at the same spots in my morning commute. Pulled stats immediately after error 2 codes came up as I know where to expect them during my morning commute. Stats stated no error with F1 or F2. I hypothesized it has to do with the position of the sun in relation to the heads. It seems to occur when the sun is directly in front of me. I tested my theory by finding a stretch of interstate which put me directly in front of the sun. This resulted in an Error 2 code until i turned. I drove that same stretch of road in the evening multiple times with no error 2 codes. I never had these problems when the ALP was 1st installed. Additionally, this problem did not occur with the LI's that i was previously using (not speaking negatively of the ALP). I do not have the Hifi module. My setup currently is all stock with laser defense and the Error 2 codes continue to occur. I do not wish to be at a disadvantage or have the error occur when I am the target LEO. Please advise on how to resolve. My ALP is HW version 2 received it Dec. 2014.

"If they get error 2 sometimes, it can be because of strong IR pulse source like car equipped with LCC, various sensors etc ."

We will look into this more but if its happening in the same location there is some sort of IR pulse that the AL does not recognize. Instead of ignoring it its defaulting to an error message.

[ballaz]

I may be doing a poor job articulating myself. It is not at just a certain location as the stretch of straight highway that I drove down to test my sun theory is not in my morning commute. It gave the Error 2 message the entire time when I was directly facing the sun during this test. (This did not occur with my previous jammers) During my morning commutes, there are certain locations that I am in the direct path of the sun, that is when the error 2 message occurs. I cannot alter the movement of the sun obviously, but do not need to be exposed due to a possible defect in my hardware as it seems I may be the only experiencing this particular issue. I have a 2008 Maxima; no LCC, no park assist, no blind spot monitoring, etc. Unfortunately, I do not have sufficient privileges to post pictures of my install for evaluation, however it was meticulously setup for optimal performance. Heads are as level as possible, and wires are routed for minimal electrical disturbances from the car.

[ballaz]

3427
3428
3429
3430

Photos of my install in-case it may help diagnose the problem.

[Won Hunglo]

My error 2, F1 and sensor fails started before I uploaded the wifi software and continue with the wifi software. I was running the droid module without any issues for several month than all the issues started. I did notice the different warnings between software. It is unplugged right now because my system is DOA. Not useable in its current state.

[OrlNmE]

Tom, is it possible that maybe the sensor is getting a high reflection from the bottom part of the bumper?

Ballaz, I'm no expert, but I want to throw some ideas out in case something sticks. Unless BRD or anyone else tells you not to try this, do you have a (not shiny) black flat card or something else dark that you can place directly below the heads that will stick out about 2" pass the bubble? I am curious about this because from looking at the photos, the edge of the bottom bumper has a nice reflection. It's a long shot, but it wouldn't hurt to try. I say this because if your indicating that it happens when traveling in the direction of the sun, then it sounds like to me that your getting an array reflection from something. Just a thought, I am very curious as to what is causing your problem also.

[kasher1979]

One more thing to consider.... It's probably not it BUT, I was getting errors, and come to find out I had a bad power connection, because the unit eventually just started powering off. After I fixed this, things have been fine and no more errors.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Tom, is it possible that maybe the sensor is getting a high reflection from the bottom part of the bumper?

Ballaz, I'm no expert, but I want to throw some ideas out in case something sticks. Unless BRD or anyone else tells you not to try this, do you have a (not shiny) black flat card or something else dark that you can place directly below the heads that will stick out about 2" pass the bubble? I am curious about this because from looking at the photos, the edge of the bottom bumper has a nice reflection. It's a long shot, but it wouldn't hurt to try. I say this because if your indicating that it happens when traveling in the direction of the sun, then it sounds like to me that your getting an array reflection from something. Just a thought, I am very curious as to what is causing your problem also.

Doubt that is the issue. We are making some changes to the firmware and most likely since its happening in the same location only when the sun is up its most likely interference. In Pre-Release versions we used to have a sun interference alert but even during sun interference the unit would still defend since the ALP automatically adjusts for the sun. The alert should not be an Error 2 when there is an interference error so it will be changed to an interference alert and we will lower the sensitivity of the warning after startup. In the latest versions we increased the sensitivity on start-up when it does a full sensor check but did not reduce it back after start-up.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Photos of my install in-case it may help diagnose the problem.

Raising your heads might help but wait for the next firmware release before making changes.

[ballaz]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will wait until the next update before making adjustments. The levels states the heads are vertically and horizontally centered.

[RedRocket]

Tom, is it possible that maybe the sensor is getting a high reflection from the bottom part of the bumper?

Ballaz, I'm no expert, but I want to throw some ideas out in case something sticks.In his case,absolutely not.The bumper is far to close for any Laser Diode photon divergence to reflect backwards into the receiving diode array.

[RedRocket]

Doubt that is the issue. We are making some changes to the firmware and most likely since its happening in the same location only when the sun is up its most likely interference. In Pre-Release versions we used to have a sun interference alert but even during sun interference the unit would still defend since the ALP automatically adjusts for the sun. The alert should not be an Error 2 when there is an interference error so it will be changed to an interference alert and we will lower the sensitivity of the warning after startup. In the latest versions we increased the sensitivity on start-up when it does a full sensor check but did not reduce it back after start-up.I prefer to retain the increased sensitivity & am not interested in scaling it back w/ different f/w.I don't have a problem w/ it "as is"- b/c as soon as I back away the Priority self clears the error. I've not had any Sun interference episodes...but I will try that scenario just for the hell of it.

[kasher1979]

hmm. spoke to soon. i got the error tonight and my sound was very staticy in the process. anyone else had that happen where the voice statics while it says error 2?

i have has these errors on and off for a while now and i am habing a hard time nailing down exactly where prob is coming from. one good thing about it all is a person never has to worey about this product because of how fast they move. Tom has been great and I feel like i drive the poor guy insane. lol

[kasher1979]

Went and checked things out a bit unplugged power and back into CPU. Then I unplugged sensor 2 as I was planning to do a check to see if it was one sensor or the other, and the thing is working perfectly now. Something is amiss. Like Tom said it's possible it's a bug in the hifi module.

[kasher1979]

Here is video of my error. We are stumped what is causing this. I am thinking some kind of power issue. What you guys think?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6BzIaL252s

[BestRadarDetectors]

Here is video of my error. We are stumped what is causing this. I am thinking some kind of power issue. What you guys think?


How many Radar Heads do you have in this vehicle? Do you also have shifters connected to that 9500CI? If so where are the heads?
Also, In Regard to your issue are you using an Add A Fuse for Power? Do you have a different one around?

[kasher1979]

How many Radar Heads do you have in this vehicle? Do you also have shifters connected to that 9500CI? If so where are the heads?
Also, In Regard to your issue are you using an Add Fuse for Power? Do you have different one around?

I have two Radar Heads. I do have the shifters connected but they are under the seat and the shifting and even receiving is turned off. I am using add fuse yes. I am using new add fuse that I used when I hooked my ALP up to it; own power circuit back when the unit was just turning off by itself few weeks ago.

[BestRadarDetectors]

I have two Radar Heads. I do have the shifters connected but they are under the seat and the shifting and even receiving is turned off. I am using add fuse yes. I am using new add fuse that I used when I hooked my ALP up to it; own power circuit back when the unit was just turning off by itself few weeks ago.

We can start by eliminating common issues. If Ground is solid and the +12V is going to the Add A Fuse first try to use a different Add A Fuse. The speaker sounded like a battery operated radio when the batteries are low and its struggling to stay on.

[kasher1979]

We can start by eliminating common issues. If Ground is solid and the +12V is going to the Add Fuse first try to use different Add Fuse. The speaker sounded like battery operated radio when the batteries are low and its struggling to stay on.

Yeah I can change the add a fuse, but I don't think thats the issue. THe unit powered down by itself if you remember back a few weeks ago. SInce then I added a whole new add fuse and put it on a different cicuit. Plus it makes no sense that it kept doing this until I started messing around with the CPU checking things out then it just snapped right out of it and started working fine.

[kasher1979]

I will switch to new add a fuse this evening though.

[kasher1979]

Tom can you send me a new connector with the 12V wires on it. I am going to change that and change add fuse and also check and possibly change ground location. This way the power issues will ALL be eliminated.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Tom can you send me a new connector with the 12V wires on it. I am going to change that and change add fuse and also check and possibly change ground location. This way the power issues will ALL be eliminated.

Yeah.. I can do that. PM me your address again.

[kasher1979]

Yeah.. I can do that. PM me your address again.

Ok I will. One question. Does it matter which fuse I add it into as long as its switched. I really dont know what the power source is (need to check) All i did was use my testor to find swtiched source and put it on that one. I have this wired in my fuse box under hood.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Ok I will. One question. Does it matter which fuse I add it into as long as its switched. I really dont know what the power source is (need to check) All i did was use my testor to find swtiched source and put it on that one. I have this wired in my fuse box under hood.

It should not matter as long as its switched.

[kasher1979]

It should not matter as long as its switched. Thats what I was thinking. Just being sure.. Trying to eliminate every single possibility of power issue.

I use the main ground that the battery is hooked to for everything. I think I have 3 connections on there. Could that be an issue? I have everything tightened down together on there really well. The reason I do this is because theres not any good place to do it inside the cabin, so I just do everything on main ground and run wires through firewall since its so easy to go through my firewall.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Thats what I was thinking. Just being sure.. Trying to eliminate every single possibility of power issue.

I use the main ground that the battery is hooked to for everything. I think I have 3 connections on there. Could that be an issue? I have everything tightened down together on there really well. The reason I do this is because theres not any good place to do it inside the cabin, so I just do everything on main ground and run wires through firewall since its so easy to go through my firewall.

Just find a close metal screw and ground it directly to the body. You definitely dont need to run a ground wire all the way out to the front of the car to ground it to the Battery Ground. I gather you extended the original Ground wire to reach all the way out there. Find a screw under the dash and ground the wire closer to the CPU. The longer the wire the less the current that can pass through the wires unless you are extending with larger gauge wire.

[kasher1979]

Just find a close metal screw and ground it directly to the body. You definitely dont need to run a ground wire all the way out to the front of the car to ground it to the Battery Ground. I gather you extended the original Ground wire to reach all the way out there. Find a screw under the dash and ground the wire closer to the CPU. The longer the wire the less the current that can pass through the wires unless you are extending with larger gauge wire.

Gotcha. I will try again to find something. The ground is actually quite close to where my CPU is The CPU sits right next to the firewall enterance. Its probably only 2 or 3 feet max from the CPU. but I will see if I can find anything at all closer. I have problems finding anything inside the cabin to hook directly to the body.

It sounds like what you are saying is that it would truly be best to not have to extend the ground anymore than the original wire offers.

I will try... Also just send that new cable and we will rule that out. I can send the old one back if you need me to later.

Thanks

[dinkydi]

Ok I will. One question. Does it matter which fuse I add it into as long as its switched. I really dont know what the power source is (need to check) All i did was use my testor to find swtiched source and put it on that one. I have this wired in my fuse box under hood.
Subject to ur vehicle voltage the best way to find a good 12v scource is with a test lamp with a 21watt globe in, volt meters testers can show 12 v and be kinda false not enough amps

[kasher1979]

Subject to ur vehicle voltage the best way to find a good 12v scource is with a test lamp with a 21watt globe in, volt meters testers can show 12 v and be kinda false not enough amps

Yeah I don't think the connection is a problem. It is randomly shutting off and randomly doing the staticy voice and loosing the sensor connections. Then it might go for a few days and run fine. It seems very random and I am not able to get a pattern of figure out what's causing it.

I am out of ideas. I changed all my connections and moved ground to closer location to the CPU.


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[awj223]

How about running the thing off of a "clean" power source, like a laboratory power supply?

[kasher1979]

How about running the thing off of "clean" power source, like laboratory power supply?

Looks like it may end up coming to something like this.

[FJR1300]

Most vehicle electrical problems start out with a bad ground, looks mean nothing. Best way to test your ground is via voltage drop, measure from a known good ground, use the battery terminal for convenience, the other lead at the ground point you are considering.
Max reading is .5 volts, but even that is bit a high in modern cars, I recommend < = .2 volts.

If you have that, the next thing to check is whether that voltage reading changes with temperature, if you have a multimeter with record fumction, you can just leave it hooked up and run the engine for a while,, then let it cool back down and check your max readings.

One common area that causes high voltage grounds on the entire vehicle is the negative cable where it connects to the engine block, particularly in snowbelt vehicles.

If your multimeter has an ammeter function you can take recorded readings of that also (as long as you're tapped into a power source rated <= the ammeter capability)
Hth.

[kasher1979]

Most vehicle electrical problems start out with bad ground, looks mean nothing. Best way to test your ground is via voltage drop, measure from known good ground, use the battery terminal for convenience, the other lead at the ground point you are considering.
Max reading is .5 volts, but even that is bit high in modern cars, I recommend < = .2 volts.

If you have that, the next thing to check is whether that voltage reading changes with temperature, if you have multimeter with record fumction, you can just leave it hooked up and run the engine for while,, then let it cool back down and check your max readings.

One common area that causes high voltage grounds on the entire vehicle is the negative cable where it connects to the engine block, particularly in snowbelt vehicles.

If your multimeter has an ammeter function you can take recorded readings of that also (as long as you're tapped into power source rated <= the ammeter capability)
Hth.

This is all above my head to be honest. I have tried two ground locations and changed out fuse tapes etc. My radar detectors and the Laser Interceptor that I had all run perfectly in my car, so I am not sure what the deal is. AL is looking into it. We will see what they come up with. Whatever it is , it's something in the ALP that is not agreeing with my car obviously.

[FJR1300]

Gotcha, well the only other thing I would add is to make sure that you aren't using a fuse that powers something with a highly variable power draw, like a blower motor for example. Some electronics are sensitive to that type of thing. I'm sure Tom will get you back up and running.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Gotcha, well the only other thing I would add is to make sure that you aren't using a fuse that powers something with a highly variable power draw, like a blower motor for example. Some electronics are sensitive to that type of thing. I'm sure Tom will get you back up and running.

That is a good point and I was not even considering this. What switched circuit are you currently tapped into? Is the radio fuse a switched power circuit?

[kasher1979]

That is good point and I was not even considering this. What switched circuit are you currently tapped into? Is the radio fuse switched power circuit?

No I dont believe the radio is switched on this vehicle. I have used two different power sources . I am not sure what the other one was but the issues have occured on both.

The one I am using now is :

F39
5A*
Daytime running lamps and headlamp control module ignition feed

[kasher1979]

Gotcha, well the only other thing I would add is to make sure that you aren' using fuse that powers something with highly variable power draw, like blower motor for example. Some electronics are sensitive to that type of thing. I' sure Tom will get you back up and running.

He's already spending a lot of time helping me and PMing me. I have plenty support. I just know when theres a wild problem like this sometimes others can offer input like you did. Thanks!

[dinkydi]

Also try a direct power from the cigar lighter socket after market two wire one make sure u know which the powe and ground is

[kasher1979]

Also try a direct power from the cigar lighter socket after market two wire one make sure u know which the powe and ground is

My lighter isn't a switch source or I would. However I am tempted to do this and just manually power my unit on and off because I know the cig light plug power wouldn't be interrupted.


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[dinkydi]

It don't matter the switching side just plug the two wire bit in test for live wire and earth ,un plug wire what u want to test and plug in

[kasher1979]

Ok so got the manual and looked at fuses again. I took the fuse tap and put it in the power mirror circuit. I am positive this is a regular switched circuit and should not power down abruptly.

Does that sound like a good choice. ?


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[dinkydi]

Sorry can't say not familiar with the car that's why I suggested the cig lighter just thought a good scource and kinda un effected by other scources

[kasher1979]

So far so good. But the bad thing about trying to test this is it might go a week or two with no trouble and then suddenly act up with no warning.


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[dinkydi]

Mine used to give me error code six there is a thread some where and the behaviour was same as urs till one day on the road the code six came on and I stopped on th Rs took mi ages to get it going again and I to lost confidence replaced the flu and never looked bak thread may be in our oz sec but code six was send cpu for service

[Lucky225]

Kasher: Can you take pics of which switched fuse you're connected to? There is a switched fuse on the 2014 Ford Escape that was giving me issues during initial install, we had to move to a different switched fuse because of it, it was an intermittent issue. Also where do you have it grounded? My initial bolt I used for ground there was some plastic causing the ground to intermittently become loose as well.

[Lucky225]

Ok so got the manual and looked at fuses again. I took the fuse tap and put it in the power mirror circuit. I am positive this is a regular switched circuit and should not power down abruptly.

Does that sound like a good choice. ?


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Whoops, didn't see that :)

[Lucky225]

No I dont believe the radio is switched on this vehicle. I have used two different power sources . I am not sure what the other one was but the issues have occured on both.

The one I am using now is :

F39
5A*
Daytime running lamps and headlamp control module ignition feed















That's the one I was using that was giving me issues HAH!

[kasher1979]

That's the one I was using that was giving me issues HAH!

The mirror fuse was giving you issues or the radio?


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[Lucky225]

The mirror fuse was giving you issues or the radio?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Daytime running light fuse, the one you're using currently. I forget what we switched it to to resolve it. I'll take a look at what I'm using now later.

[OrlNmE]

Daytime running light fuse, the one you're using currently. I forget what we switched it to to resolve it. I'll take a look at what I'm using now later.

Hey guys, any update on this. I am curious to know what was causing the issue.

[Clint Eastwood]

http://youtu.be/BRl6x2xHo_g

[BestRadarDetectors]

What car was behind you? My bet would be a Volvo or Mazda that was interfering with your system so the ALP alerted to the interference.

[Clint Eastwood]

What car was behind you? My bet would be a Volvo or Mazda that was interfering with your system so the ALP alerted to the interference.

I will backtrack the video tracks and see if I merged ahead of a Volvo or Mazda.

[Clint Eastwood]

3587