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  1. #11
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    If you want something easy just run it straight to the battery with a 12v switch with a fuse.If you want one I'll make you one.
    Telling the truth and exposing the lies in the lidar and radar industry

    "I'm interested to see how well you do.I never seen a car JTG before would be a first for me.."

  2. #12
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  3. #13
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    You're talking about a manual switch for on/off of the system? Its inconvenient and I can accomplish that by plugging the fuse tap into the unswitched side of the fuse box.
    Interesting fact I discovered after 6 hours of trial and error this weekend- If I tap into the switched side of the fuse box (kick panel or engine bay), the system starts fine with the hood of the car open. Close the hood and all I get is a solid green light and the control module won't work.
    I tested the voltage both ways, 12+v, no change.
    Thought it might be a ground loop problem, but I also tried different grounding points with the same results. What the heck is going on with this thing?

  4. #14
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    Well, I finally figured it out. Turns out it wasn't an electrical issue after all. It was interference from the collision avoidance system on the front of my car. The 'camera' uses a laser frequency and runs through its diagnostics the same time as the ALP startup, even though I disabled it in the vehicle settings.
    The solution was to put a couple of pieces of electrical tape over that portion of the windshield. If I can find the fuse for it and pull it.......

    If you install your ALP and get a solid green light on startup and it won't go into defend mode (flashing blue light), this is your problem.

    Also note- it takes a full 60 seconds or so after startup for the ALP 'setup' settings to go into effect. Mine cycles into defend mode after about a full minute, then takes another 15 seconds or so to go into dim mode.

  5. #15
    Senior Member BestRadarDetectors's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topher06 View Post
    Well, I finally figured it out. Turns out it wasn't an electrical issue after all. It was interference from the collision avoidance system on the front of my car. The 'camera' uses a laser frequency and runs through its diagnostics the same time as the ALP startup, even though I disabled it in the vehicle settings.
    The solution was to put a couple of pieces of electrical tape over that portion of the windshield. If I can find the fuse for it and pull it.......

    If you install your ALP and get a solid green light on startup and it won't go into defend mode (flashing blue light), this is your problem.

    Also note- it takes a full 60 seconds or so after startup for the ALP 'setup' settings to go into effect. Mine cycles into defend mode after about a full minute, then takes another 15 seconds or so to go into dim mode.
    Yes, We have mentioned this before that if you have an ACC system that would interfere with the ALP, The ALP is the only system that will alert you to the interference at startup while other systems will just ignore it but the interference will cause an issue when you need to depend on the system the most.
    Need Help Choosing a Radar Detector for your needs? Visit our website: http://www.bestradardetectors.net, Send us a PM or call us at 1-888-229-7594
    Before looking at an Escort Radar Detector you should really check out Uniden Detectors.. Uniden R1 & R3 are the best performing radar detectors for the money.

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