"Error 2"

[dinkydi]

Ok I will. One question. Does it matter which fuse I add it into as long as its switched. I really dont know what the power source is (need to check) All i did was use my testor to find swtiched source and put it on that one. I have this wired in my fuse box under hood.

Subject to ur vehicle voltage the best way to find a good 12v scource is with a test lamp with a 21watt globe in, volt meters testers can show 12 v and be kinda false not enough amps

[kasher1979]

Subject to ur vehicle voltage the best way to find a good 12v scource is with a test lamp with a 21watt globe in, volt meters testers can show 12 v and be kinda false not enough amps

Yeah I don't think the connection is a problem. It is randomly shutting off and randomly doing the staticy voice and loosing the sensor connections. Then it might go for a few days and run fine. It seems very random and I am not able to get a pattern of figure out what's causing it.

I am out of ideas. I changed all my connections and moved ground to closer location to the CPU.


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[awj223]

How about running the thing off of a "clean" power source, like a laboratory power supply?

[kasher1979]

How about running the thing off of "clean" power source, like laboratory power supply?

Looks like it may end up coming to something like this.

[FJR1300]

Most vehicle electrical problems start out with a bad ground, looks mean nothing. Best way to test your ground is via voltage drop, measure from a known good ground, use the battery terminal for convenience, the other lead at the ground point you are considering.
Max reading is .5 volts, but even that is bit a high in modern cars, I recommend < = .2 volts.

If you have that, the next thing to check is whether that voltage reading changes with temperature, if you have a multimeter with record fumction, you can just leave it hooked up and run the engine for a while,, then let it cool back down and check your max readings.

One common area that causes high voltage grounds on the entire vehicle is the negative cable where it connects to the engine block, particularly in snowbelt vehicles.

If your multimeter has an ammeter function you can take recorded readings of that also (as long as you're tapped into a power source rated <= the ammeter capability)
Hth.

[kasher1979]

Most vehicle electrical problems start out with bad ground, looks mean nothing. Best way to test your ground is via voltage drop, measure from known good ground, use the battery terminal for convenience, the other lead at the ground point you are considering.
Max reading is .5 volts, but even that is bit high in modern cars, I recommend < = .2 volts.

If you have that, the next thing to check is whether that voltage reading changes with temperature, if you have multimeter with record fumction, you can just leave it hooked up and run the engine for while,, then let it cool back down and check your max readings.

One common area that causes high voltage grounds on the entire vehicle is the negative cable where it connects to the engine block, particularly in snowbelt vehicles.

If your multimeter has an ammeter function you can take recorded readings of that also (as long as you're tapped into power source rated <= the ammeter capability)
Hth.

This is all above my head to be honest. I have tried two ground locations and changed out fuse tapes etc. My radar detectors and the Laser Interceptor that I had all run perfectly in my car, so I am not sure what the deal is. AL is looking into it. We will see what they come up with. Whatever it is , it's something in the ALP that is not agreeing with my car obviously.

[FJR1300]

Gotcha, well the only other thing I would add is to make sure that you aren't using a fuse that powers something with a highly variable power draw, like a blower motor for example. Some electronics are sensitive to that type of thing. I'm sure Tom will get you back up and running.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Gotcha, well the only other thing I would add is to make sure that you aren't using a fuse that powers something with a highly variable power draw, like a blower motor for example. Some electronics are sensitive to that type of thing. I'm sure Tom will get you back up and running.

That is a good point and I was not even considering this. What switched circuit are you currently tapped into? Is the radio fuse a switched power circuit?

[kasher1979]

That is good point and I was not even considering this. What switched circuit are you currently tapped into? Is the radio fuse switched power circuit?

No I dont believe the radio is switched on this vehicle. I have used two different power sources . I am not sure what the other one was but the issues have occured on both.

The one I am using now is :

F39

5A*

Daytime running lamps and headlamp control module ignition feed

[kasher1979]

Gotcha, well the only other thing I would add is to make sure that you aren' using fuse that powers something with highly variable power draw, like blower motor for example. Some electronics are sensitive to that type of thing. I' sure Tom will get you back up and running.

He's already spending a lot of time helping me and PMing me. I have plenty support. I just know when theres a wild problem like this sometimes others can offer input like you did. Thanks!