Couple of questions for you ALP experts :)

Was on BestRadarDetectors.net and looking at the other options the ALP offerers. (GPS, HIFI ect.)

(I'm coming from LI, which i love the alert voice stating the gun being shot with, remote speaker to extra loud alerts, and the kill switch)
^^^ All which if i understand correctly, and please correct if wrong, do not come with the ALP? ALP is shipped with a remote control that is kinda hard in my option to grab while driving and slowing at the same time

Is there a way to convert/add a flip kill switch like the LI?

Bluetooth is the ONLY way to hear the alerts at the moment and that module is $100+ right?

(sorry for so many question)

thank you for your time!

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Originally Posted by amendolaro

Was on BestRadarDetectors.net and looking at the other options the ALP offerers. (GPS, HIFI ect.)

(I'm coming from LI, which i love the alert voice stating the gun being shot with, remote speaker to extra loud alerts, and the kill switch)
^^^ All which if i understand correctly, and please correct if wrong, do not come with the ALP? ALP is shipped with a remote control that is kinda hard in my option to grab while driving and slowing at the same time

Is there a way to convert/add a flip kill switch like the LI?

Bluetooth is the ONLY way to hear the alerts at the moment and that module is $100+ right?

(sorry for so many question)

thank you for your time!

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At this moment if you want Voice Alerts the only option is Bluetooth with ALP Connect, Otherwise you will only have different tone alerts through the speaker in the control module. I have always wondered why so many people care so much about Voice Alerts. Does it matter that much what you are hit with rather than just knowing you are protected and the system is responding? If you want to see what you were hit with you could always pull a statistics report and it will show you what you were tagged with when you get home.

I also get asked about adding a kill switch several times a day and its not needed with the ALP because by default there are several automatic kill options... Laser Defense by default is set to 4 Seconds and will automatically kill after 4 seconds of defense, You can also press any button on the controller and also kill automatically. If you get the GPS and Radar Integration you can also have the ALP kill by GPS speed once you go below a set speed. If you want to add a kill switch just install a switch in between your +12V power wire.

If you want to add Voice Alerts in the future there will be an upgrade available in the future that will add Voice Alerts and an Amplified Speaker without needing to use a smartphone.

well guess I'm out without voice alerts then lol i have android. i not super tech savy but was able to install my LI but will have to google on the kill switch as I'm in the dark on that 1, i just don't trust the time delayed incase TOO much time, 4 seconds doesn't sound like a lot but if they hit you close... it could be too much time..

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Originally Posted by amendolaro

well guess I'm out without voice alerts then lol i have android. i not super tech savy but was able to install my LI but will have to google on the kill switch as I'm in the dark on that 1, i just don't trust the time delayed incase TOO much time, 4 seconds doesn't sound like a lot but if they hit you close... it could be too much time..

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Installing a Kill Switch will be the easiest part of the install. Cut the +12Vt red power wire and in the middle somewhere and add any switch such as this one.

Attachment 2163

Flick the switch and no power and unit goes off.

I think hes more on about the package and price range as the Li comes with external speaker where is the ALp doesn't ..as for the voices every body is different but my apioning lidar is lidar I really don't care what I get shot with there are only 3 guns used in my area and I don't need a smart phone to tell me this

as for the kill switch I would recommend adding in another to the main power source for that instant kill ..many times I have had an eye save or driving under the PSL but still needed to press the power button on the ALP for 2 seconds... most of the times I kill my jammers by touch and feel every car I have owned I have allways tried to keep the switches in the same location just a habit and your body automaticlay reacts ....where the ALp hand set is a pain in the ass I have muted or even changed settings on an alert

I will be in for the Voice Alert with the amplified speaker !

Envoyé de mon HUAWEI Y300-0151 en utilisant Tapatalk

thank you very much! can't wait to get these bad boys installed!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BestRadarDetectors

Installing a Kill Switch will be the easiest part of the install. Cut the +12Vt red power wire and in the middle somewhere and add any switch such as this one.

Attachment 2163

Flick the switch and no power and unit goes off.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by BestRadarDetectors

I also get asked about adding a kill switch several times a day and its not needed with the ALP because by default there are several automatic kill options... Laser Defense by default is set to 4 Seconds and will automatically kill after 4 seconds of defense, You can also press any button on the controller and also kill automatically.

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Please clarify for me. While I'm being hit by a laser gun and wanted to stop the jamming I can simply push the power button on the controller? Do I have to hold it down or is it instantaneous?

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Originally Posted by gqa

Please clarify for me. While I'm being hit by a laser gun and wanted to stop the jamming I can simply push the power button on the controller? Do I have to hold it down or is it instantaneous?

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Pressing either button during an alert instantly kills the jammer.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Cool. Thanks!

BRD, could i use the LI switch thats already custom cutout in my car? Attachment 2168

i know i wouldn't need all wires, (mute etc) - red for power another for ground? (if you know)

edit

you guys will work it out

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Originally Posted by deano

of course you can its a switch

I used the gray wire as this was the power wire after the switch ...one flick of a switch kills front LI and my rear ALP

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So gray is power? What one is ground ? sorry.

Sent from my SM-N900A using Tapatalk

edit

you guys will work it out

okay thanks ! other 2 wires i will just cut and put electrical tape around and leave alone. now to toss a curve ball in, if i wanted to keep LIs in the rear, all id have to do is splice the gray wire with the LI/ALP power?

edit

you guys will work it out

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Originally Posted by deano

another example is that a switch acts as a door if you open it lets you to walk through ..when its closed you cant walk through

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Err...that's backwards. An "open" switch is one whose electrical contacts are open, e.g. not touching, and does NOT allow current to pass through. When the switch is "closed", the two sides of the switch are electrically connected, and allow current to pass. It's more like a drawbridge: in the "open" (up) position, nothing can pass, while in the "closed" (down) position, traffic can flow across the bridge.

yes you have me there ..but it was a figure of speach ..im geussing your going to now give me wrong for my spellig mistakes


very funny how you guys come out the wood work WOW .......all stay silent untill some one fucks up (CALL YOUR SELF GURUS )

instead of criticizing me WHY DONT YOU HELP THE BLOKE OUT ..I WAS USING THE DOOR SENARIO AS I WAS THE ELERTIC CURRUNT

im geussing im no good you now you can now take over ..to be honest i now cant remember if it was the green or red wire i was going to state that i will post pics of mine BUT NOW I DONT NEED TO

but since i used the door senario ..you americans even spell colour incorectly any ways there was my help i was going to post pics

why bother .

at the end of the day a switch is basically a door or a gate or a bridge or a gate call it what you want

i had to edit my posts as im colour /color blind i realy cant tell if gray or green they both look the same to me

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Originally Posted by amendolaro

So gray is power? What one is ground ? sorry.

Sent from my SM-N900A using Tapatalk

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Ground wire does not get connected to the Switch. The Switch is only allowing the +12V power to either pass to the ALP or Not. The Ground will go to usually any Metal screw that is screwed into the chassis.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by amendolaro

okay thanks ! other 2 wires i will just cut and put electrical tape around and leave alone. now to toss a curve ball in, if i wanted to keep LIs in the rear, all id have to do is splice the gray wire with the LI/ALP power?

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Sorry, I do not run the LI's so I am not sure if you can tap power from the switch to run both units at the same time.

Amendolaro ,

i will try to help you : i will not get in color of the wires to avoid confusing more .

Basically you can power without problem many devices from one control switch AS LONG you
splice together the Positive of all devices . The negative , also called Ground can be taken anywhere
on the chassis.
It is very basic.
Along the positive wire you should place a fuse from 2 to 5 amps , just as an added safety .

Questions welcome.

Attachment 2187

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tman

Amendolaro ,

i will try to help you : i will not get in color of the wires to avoid confusing more .

Basically you can power without problem many devices from one control switch AS LONG you
splice together the Positive of all devices . The negative , also called Ground can be taken anywhere
on the chassis.
It is very basic.
Along the positive wire you should place a fuse from 2 to 5 amps , just as an added safety .

Questions welcome.

Attachment 2185

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Thank you. Now as of right now I have the power for Li wired into my fuse box already. Do you happen to know the color of the wire I should use from the LI switch for power ?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by amendolaro

Thank you. Now as of right now I have the power for Li wired into my fuse box already. Do you happen to know the color of the wire I should use from the LI switch for power ?

Sent from my SM-N900A using Tapatalk

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It is Red ...

Do you have a small tester , like the $ 2 from dollorama ?

I have one actually, despite my horrible experience lol should I cut the red wire flip the switch and see if the wire is live ?

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I wouldn't cut any wires, just touch one of the tester leads to the other terminal of the switch (away from the battery/fuse) and the other to a ground wire, and flip the switch back and forth. You should see the voltage change from approximately 12V to 0.

The $2 tester wont show voltage , only open\shut off the bulb .

Testing : place the alligator clamp on the body and touch the pointy tip to each suspected wire ,
when you get the right one : it will light up...Bingo.

Last question. . I think lol can I ground both the Li system and alp system to the same ground? Thinking about keeping the Li on the back instead of nothing

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by amendolaro

Last question. . I think lol can I ground both the Li system and alp system to the same ground? Thinking about keeping the Li on the back instead of nothing

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Yes.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Side note : you can also use the ground as a cut-off.

You can use a switch for the ground to shut-off any device , which i prefer because there is no danger
to trigger a short-circuit (like if the wire touch the body by mistake if you use the positive as cut-off ).

i had to dig around and pull some wires out but you can see the 3 colour wires for the LI switch ..i spliced my ALP red wire into the gray wire and my negitive from my ALP goes straight to earth /chasis/ground

the red wire on the LI switch is a constant power supply meaning if you splice into the red the ALP will not switch off when you flick ON and OFF the LI switch ....doing this this on the gray wire =1 flick of a switch controls both jammer cpus

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...psededae72.jpg