Temp Fix for using both the Bluetooth Module & Control Module

A few of us have purchased these 2 Port Network Switches on Ebay and I can confirm this switch works:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Dual-2-...item23347dd7d1

They are $3.55 cents shipped and I just received a few and I can confirm that they do indeed work. You can connect the Bluetooth Module to one Port and the Control Module to the other port. Then a jumper cable to connect the switch to the Control Module. You can press the A or B button on the switch to switch between the different modules.

Guess for the price its worth buying in case you run out one day and forget your phone or iPod behind and its a simple push of the button to switch to the Control Module until an official fix is released from AntiLaser.

Attachment 597

http://youtu.be/YXDvOQBj96A

Got mine in the mail yesterday.

Will hook it up today.

on order,:) izza good at leaving mi phone behind

Just ordered mine, I hope it works! It will be nice to have both!

Man I love this forum!

For a second when you said "network switch" I thought you were referring to an Ethernet switch, and that the ALP uses ethernet to communicate with the control module. ;) Guess it can never be that obvious, can it? Cool that someone makes a physical A/B RJ45 switch.

Does it switch all 8 pins?

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Originally Posted by ECMExpert

Just ordered mine, I hope it works! It will be nice to have both!

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I have tested it and it works well. You will just need a small RJ45 patch cable to connect the switch to the CPU.

Just installed mine - all working well with a 50cm CAT5 patch lead :)

Can you flip the switch between the BT and the control module on the fly or will that confuse the CPU? Is it better to kill power, switch, then power up?

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Originally Posted by radargeek

Can you flip the switch between the BT and the control module on the fly or will that confuse the CPU? Is it better to kill power, switch, then power up?

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I have done it without killing the power but there seems to be a few second delay because the CPU resets itself once the switchover occurs.

http://youtu.be/YXDvOQBj96A

What I would love would be for AntiLaser to create a switch that auto senses if there is a Bluetooth connection and if not would automatically switch to the Control Module so when starting up you are always protected without having to remember to do anything if you run out without your phone.

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Originally Posted by BestRadarDetectors

What I would love would be for AntiLaser to create a switch that auto senses if there is a Bluetooth connection and if not would automatically switch to the Control Module so when starting up you are always protected without having to remember to do anything if you run out without your phone.

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X2. Or add a 2nd jack to the bluetooth module so you can plug the control module into that, and have it so either can work, with or without a BT connection or the app running.

if there is no connection the led will glow red when you start the car. Then you need to hit the switch and the on button on your control or start the bt on the phone. I find it easier to use the control on a short trip.

All sold out :( . I have one but would like another...works perfect

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Originally Posted by Nanook

All sold out :( . I have one but would like another...works perfect

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I have several if you need another one.

pm'd you

These switched are being sold on Amazon as well. This one is Prime eligible too:
MT-VIKI 2 Ports Network Switch Splitter Selector Hub 2-In 1-Out or 1-In 2-Out 100M MT-RJ45-2M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRG1SLO

I just ordered a few on eBay without even thinking to check Amazon, thanks for posting that up. Ordering another now since I am impatient. :thumbs2:

Those who are using this: is it a mechanical push button like the old school RCA switches? It would be cool if the switch could be triggered by an external switch mounted somewhere accessible.

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Originally Posted by ApexOnYou

I just ordered a few on eBay without even thinking to check Amazon, thanks for posting that up. Ordering another now since I am impatient. :thumbs2:

Those who are using this: is it a mechanical push button like the old school RCA switches? It would be cool if the switch could be triggered by an external switch mounted somewhere accessible.

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It's a Mechanical Switch, Like the old School Radio buttons. You push One in, the other Pops out..

-SlickD

Quick question, but has anyone tried using a power over ethernet switch? Are we sure that the issue isn't that these devices just require power over the ethernet cord? Anyways, I'm emailing them right now to ask.

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Originally Posted by epoplive

Quick question, but has anyone tried using a power over ethernet switch? Are we sure that the issue isn't that these devices just require power over the ethernet cord? Anyways, I'm emailing them right now to ask.

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You need a dumb switch that is switching from one port to the next. This is not a Ethernet connection and you will damage your ALP if you connect to an Ethernet switch or hub. It has to be a dumb switch that manually switches from one port to the next. The only one that will work is listed in the first post.

Sorry to sound like a noob (I am, just installed my fronts yesterday), much appreciated. Has AP officially said they are going to be coming up with something so they can work in tandem? Relying purely on bluetooth scares me. Also, quick question, if I need to extend my control cable (I mounted in the trunk) what's the wiring setup for that? It sounded like you need a crossover for the dumb switch, would that be the case as well for this?

Would also like to know what you guys think about using something like the Stir+ integration in this, I've been using a Redline with Escort Live (smart cord) for about a year now. Are you guys using multiple apps at the same time, or just forgoing the crowdsourcing and map display? The crowdsourced stuff has been really helpful to me, it will be interesting to see if the ones that my Redline havn't been picking up are using laser.

Pretty sure it's been stated previously that the control set & bt are not planned to be developed to work simultaneously. The switch that BRD mentioned is your best option for flexibility.

Just use a passive usb extender or longer usb cable to reach the desired location.

I don't think there have been any reports of bt connectivity issues, outside of maybe the initial 6 & 6 Plus with iOS 8 when they initially rolled out.

I think most users go with Waze in the foreground and ALP in the background, or EL like yourself.

You'd gain a cleaner install with the STiR+, should be pretty even on detection.

I'd recommend getting familiar with your new ALP and then tweaking your setup to your individual taste from there.

Congrats on the new purchase.

I wouldn't stress mate.
Most of us have been running bt from the start and never had any issues.
Avoid updating ios when it updates and wait for a few weeks until others bug check it for you is the best way to avoid any issues ;).
Same goes with firmware haha. (:

Unfortunately my new phone came with ios8. It looks like the update + forgetting all my bluetooth devices seems to have fixed the issues i was having with the BT module. My understanding is that using the switch to go between the bluetooth and control module will reset the system, effectively causing it to stop jamming correct? My main concern is the ability to kill jamming without relying on the phone OS/bluetooth connection, although the ideal situation would still be both operating at the same time. ;) Any of you guys by chance know someone I can hook up with in SoCal to test my installation? Also would love to hear any info on suggested front placement for a w212 mercedes e class (2010 e63). Currently I have my sensors in the very top grill space as close to the headlights as I could get them, but I've also seen suggestions of moving them lower and closer to the middle. Is there any way to see the IR light being generated? I tried using my phone camera and I think it was filtering all of it out.

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Originally Posted by epoplive

My main concern is the ability to kill jamming without relying on the phone OS/bluetooth connection, although the ideal situation would still be both operating at the same time. ;)

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Use the LID Time to automatically kill at a safe time of around 4 seconds. If you are still concerned buy a $2 switch and put it inline with your +12v positive wire. If you kill the +12v you kill the system completely.

I may do this myself. But honestly with this system having the ability to auto kill at 3 seconds just set it to this and don't worry about it. I really like the auto kill being able to be set to under 5 seconds. With the LI I just set it to unlimited and manually killed because 5 sec was too long I thought.

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Originally Posted by BestRadarDetectors

... If you are still concerned buy a $2 switch and put it inline with your +12v positive wire. If you kill the +12v you kill the system completely.

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So much this!

I actually enjoyed having everything at the flick of a switch so much:

I ran an LEO Switchbox in my other Honda Civic for the longest time, one of my favorite tools ever. If I still had a spot for it, I'd absolutely use it.

http://www.vehiclesafetysupply.com/s...pimg-lg_lg.jpg

IIRC (from right to left): Passenger side to driver side (if you're wondering)

Switched source for car-amplifier (kill amp/subs at an instant)
CB-1
CB-2/Whistler 3600
Radar Detector (Windshield)
Jammers (F&R) Would kill both at the same time