Tks for update deano. Ref my post #25. Alp takes 15sec to return to normal state, too long for my purpose, hence timer purchase.
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Tks for update deano. Ref my post #25. Alp takes 15sec to return to normal state, too long for my purpose, hence timer purchase.
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15 seconds are you sure about that ,,i have triggered my ALP with a qiuck trigger pull the ALP will sound for 3 to 4 seconds after an allert then it goes back to original state ,,other wise kill switch on the ALP once the ALP is killed there should be no power to the trigger wire
15 seconds sounds to long other wise your jamming way to long
read the whole thread. Seems the convo went from the original question about muting to using the green wire instead (which is not mute and used for switching other external components). What is the consensus? Does the blue (mute) wire work straight or do we need one of those aforementioned circuit boards from ebay? Apologize if I missed the obvious.
deano, I am so sure about 15sec, I made a video. Read post #25. Correct me if wrong but watch the video.
Here is another link if #25 no work
https://flic.kr/p/voAhs7
not to sure why your green wire did not work but yes your correct the blue wire has a delay in your vid
my green wire puts out 4 to 5 volts thats why i use those 5 volt relays i showed ..i can do the same kind of test but my delay is 4 seconds after an alert
not to sure why your green wire isn't working
deano, I have ver2 cpu...Is that what you have?
jjuroz this is why I am using an adjustable DELAY timer when the blue wire triggers...
i cant remember what cpu i have as my cpu has been replaced once before
but i just stuck with the green wire as i have relays already installed ,,MY green wire triggers instantly on alert if i let the alert cycle out the green wire looses voltage within 3 to 4 seconds after my allert
im not to sure why your green wire doesnt work
i noticed in the vid ,,the ALP said INTERFERENCE DETECTION ONLY could this have affects on the green wire
Ref "Detection only"
I agree that is a dumb. You know what fixes it? I will tell you...changing lid time from 3sec currently to 4sec...plus i lose the nice machine gun sound.
I placed this vid in ''not visible to public'' , it relates to a potential problem with a kill switch : once an alert is initiated and the ''detection only'' is set and the shooting keeps on = there is no brake lights unless you shut the system.
http://radarandlaserforum.com/showth...5713#post55713
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by deano
using same relay as Deano, using the green wire on my V1 CPU. Mine switches off shortly after the audio warning cycles out. Also mine also still switches when in defense mode, but under the defined ULID speed (i.e when the car is parked and the GPS integration switches from defense to detection only)
Can someone please post their wiring diagram for the blue wire radio mute?
Negative trigger ground relays are new to me.
Only want the microrelay 5v design' not 12v. Tks
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/400786093705
This is the way i operate my setup , surely someone can have a better way , though this works well. I dont use the Blue wire , just the green.
My Cpu is second generation. The drawing is simplistic , once you get the idea you can manipulate the way you need.
Attachment 4672
Tman, tks .. I will study it and see why i can't use similar logic on different blue wire. Looks like green wire goes to vcc- which is a negative ground trigger. Then to common on switch contacts. Then off to load. Green to vcc- is key and how i screwed up before.
Right : the green is negative trigger , the blue should work also w by changing the input on the timed relay...cant comment as i never used the blue.
In my setup , the green goes to negative under alert , it triggers the timed relay + the second relay via the the closed contacts , but after the set delay those contacts open thus change the second relay.
From there you can manipulate whichever action you want : close\open any circuit.
Can anyone explain why Tman DOES NOT need a diode in his circuit. When would you use a diode?
A diode should always be used. It allows current to flow in only one direction to prevent any current from going back into the unit the wrong way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redmoto
Ok diode will be used.
Idea of improvement: to add in the settings of the ALP an ON/OFF of the mute cable. If you don't need to mute, from the Bluetooth, you unselect the function.
3 second NC relay triggered on blue wire. Design ver1, see photo below. * means set at 3sec.
Ignore cb/ck, this is on the relay, must be Chinese for nc/no.
How does this work?
0sec relay triggers in sequence with blue wire trigger, allowing relay3(black) to switch from 87a to 87 instantly.
3sec relay does nothing until 3sec is up then it takes power away from 0sec relay allowing relay3 to switch back to home position or from 87 to 87a
When trigger event is over the whole system miraculously resets.
Note come to find out this only works with engine running.
Blue wire before trigger 13.4v
Blue wire during trigger 4.4v
Trigger lasts for 5sec hence if 5sec is desired don't need 3 relays, could work with 1 relay.
Attachment 4840