AL Priority power supply

[whats up]

I want to install the AL Priority with Bluetooth and 2 front sensors in my cayman. I have a spot that I can put every thing in a waterproof box. So I don't have to snake wires through the firewall all I need is power. Can I hook It up straight to the battery. And if so how and what will be needed.

Thanks for the help

[wirelessandy]

If you connect it to the battery, there's no practical way to power it off. I don't think you want it powered on all the time, around-the-clock. You'll need a switched 12V source somewhere.

[whats up]

I thought the system can be turn off from the Bluetooth mobile phone connection.
If not that would be a problem with the install. Because there is no fuse box from what I can see just the battery.

[wirelessandy]

I just chatted with a friend of mine who has owned every model Cayman. He's on his 3rd one. He's a mod over on the Planet 9 forums. You may want to cruise over there and ask for ideas, too.

He tells me no fuse panel in the front boot.

I haven't tried turning things on/off via bluetooth. Others here can chime in on that! Good luck!

[awj223]

Don't wire it to the battery unless you want to end up with a dead battery if you don't drive the car for a few days to a few weeks.

You can't turn it off via BT. Think about it. If you turned the system off via BT, how would you turn it back on if it's powered off? :)

[wirelessandy]

Well, you could install a giant toggle switch on the hood...

[BestRadarDetectors]

I thought the system can be turn off from the Bluetooth mobile phone connection.
If not that would be a problem with the install. Because there is no fuse box from what I can see just the battery.

Of course the system can be turned on and off with BT but the CPU will always still be drawing some current so the BT connection can stay active while its looking for the turn on signal over BT. While this is not a full draw it can overtime cause your battery to drain and it should be connected to a switched power source.

[Tman]

I would go this way : connect the ground wire to the negative of the battery , then for the positive i would draw a wire from the
one of the front headlight , either you find the right wire from the bundle or you can solder a needle to end of the wire and insert
it in the socket holding one of the position lights.

The wire can be quite thin , so you dont need to make hole to reach the lights inside the cluster .

Seems complicated but in fact it is very easy when you get the idea.

For protection you can install an inline fuse on the negative or positive wire. 2 amps fuse is plenty.

Make sure the box you will use is not only waterproof but will be placed where no condensation
could occur , otherwise , over time the moisture is enough to degrade the metal\connections inside
the Cpu. I realised that when i checked the cpu from a m27 blinder which i placed inside the motor
bay ... all rotten inside after 1 year due to winter causing large change of temperature , -20C then +20
as the car was sleeping in garage.
Good luck.

[991TurboS]

I have a 2014 911 Turbo, and in my car there is a very accessible opening going through the firewall above the driver footrest and left of the steering column where it passes thru the firewall. The opening is plugged by a plastic cap you can easily remove/replace.

I would look for the same thing in your Cayman. The plastic trim in the front trunk under the windshield should snap out easily for access from the front as well. Run a wire thru the opening to your fuse panel, then use an add a fuse on a switched fuse location.

Should be easy to find a ground screw in the front area.

[Topher06]

Any advice for wiring it to the fuse box? I have a 2016 Mazda CX-5 that I'm installing the ALP into. I looked at the Laser interceptor install on my 2013 GTR for inspiration. The professional install had the power wire plugged into one of the fuses switched by the ignition.
When I try this in the CX-5 I can't get it to work. With the wire connected to the unswitched side of the fuse box it powers up and works fine. When I plug into the switched side of the fuse box it works with the ignition on (ACC mode, engine off), but when I start the engine I just get a solid green light and the controls won't work. Not getting enough amperage? Is there a way to build a relay into the unswitched side so it powers on and off with the ignition?

[Radarrob]

If you want something easy just run it straight to the battery with a 12v switch with a fuse.If you want one I'll make you one.

[Topher06]

https://youtu.be/9fUirtOrb38


https://youtu.be/I6rzwSoXxXE


https://youtu.be/uhRnQx-H0NU


https://youtu.be/lijsuRI2TYo

[Topher06]

You're talking about a manual switch for on/off of the system? Its inconvenient and I can accomplish that by plugging the fuse tap into the unswitched side of the fuse box.
Interesting fact I discovered after 6 hours of trial and error this weekend- If I tap into the switched side of the fuse box (kick panel or engine bay), the system starts fine with the hood of the car open. Close the hood and all I get is a solid green light and the control module won't work.
I tested the voltage both ways, 12+v, no change.
Thought it might be a ground loop problem, but I also tried different grounding points with the same results. What the heck is going on with this thing?

[Topher06]

Well, I finally figured it out. Turns out it wasn't an electrical issue after all. It was interference from the collision avoidance system on the front of my car. The 'camera' uses a laser frequency and runs through its diagnostics the same time as the ALP startup, even though I disabled it in the vehicle settings.
The solution was to put a couple of pieces of electrical tape over that portion of the windshield. If I can find the fuse for it and pull it.......

If you install your ALP and get a solid green light on startup and it won't go into defend mode (flashing blue light), this is your problem.

Also note- it takes a full 60 seconds or so after startup for the ALP 'setup' settings to go into effect. Mine cycles into defend mode after about a full minute, then takes another 15 seconds or so to go into dim mode.

[BestRadarDetectors]

Well, I finally figured it out. Turns out it wasn't an electrical issue after all. It was interference from the collision avoidance system on the front of my car. The 'camera' uses a laser frequency and runs through its diagnostics the same time as the ALP startup, even though I disabled it in the vehicle settings.
The solution was to put a couple of pieces of electrical tape over that portion of the windshield. If I can find the fuse for it and pull it.......

If you install your ALP and get a solid green light on startup and it won't go into defend mode (flashing blue light), this is your problem.

Also note- it takes a full 60 seconds or so after startup for the ALP 'setup' settings to go into effect. Mine cycles into defend mode after about a full minute, then takes another 15 seconds or so to go into dim mode.

Yes, We have mentioned this before that if you have an ACC system that would interfere with the ALP, The ALP is the only system that will alert you to the interference at startup while other systems will just ignore it but the interference will cause an issue when you need to depend on the system the most.