Close
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Senior Member kasher1979's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    443
    Thanks Given
    331
    Thanked 251 Times in 120 Posts

    Ideas for leveling heads when using 3M tape

    I was hoping we could share on ideas and things we all use (tricks) to level heads when using 3m tape to install them.

    I have used the composite shims before to make a level surface and just tape the head to the surface but it seems there is always some inaccuracy when all is said and done.

    Any pictures anyone could share or ideas would be appreciated, I am sure not only by me but everyone else.

    Funny... I was watching Radar Roys video on you tube about installing LJs. Whats funny is he just sticks his blinder heads right on the truck and says, "make sure you get it level" but I didn't see any work he did to level them , nor did he mention how it could be done. He just stuck it right on there. lol

  2. #2
    Administrator Yellowcab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Behind a LIDAR gun
    Posts
    1,332
    Thanks Given
    837
    Thanked 1,416 Times in 533 Posts
    I treat mounting jammer heads, like I treat my wife... bend and screw.

    Telling the truth and exposing the lies in the LIDAR industry

    www.Raletc.org

  3. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Yellowcab For This Useful Post:

    curmudgeon (10-15-2014), modsl55amg (02-20-2015), RedRocket (10-15-2014), shanetrainST (10-15-2014)

  4. #3
    Senior Member dinkydi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    cosmos
    Posts
    3,739
    Thanks Given
    4,432
    Thanked 1,222 Times in 911 Posts

  5. #4
    Senior Member radargeek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    York, SC
    Posts
    525
    Thanks Given
    116
    Thanked 571 Times in 270 Posts
    Bendable mounting brackets FTW. Tape them to a surface and then bend them to level the heads.
    If I passed you on the right, YOU are in the wrong lane!

    2016 Encounters/Saves (to date): 33.8: 1/1 (last 4/13) | 34.7: 1/1 (last 3/11) | 35.5: 19/11 (last 8/28) | K: 1/1 (last 6/26)
    2015 Encounters/Saves: 33.8: 1/0 | 34.7: 13/4 | 35.5: 19/10 | K: 4/1 | LIDAR (sighted/hit with/save): 4/1/1

    ACTIVE CMs: Redline X, K, Ka 2,4,5,8 (highway/long trip RD) | New! V1C 3.8945 K, Ka CS, TMF2 w/YaV1 (in-town RD) | ALP Quad | BlackVue DR650GW-2CH

  6. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    North America
    Posts
    605
    Thanks Given
    519
    Thanked 287 Times in 181 Posts
    Telling the truth and exposing the lies in the lidar and radar industry

    "I'm interested to see how well you do.I never seen a car JTG before would be a first for me.."

  7. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Shreveport, LA
    Posts
    121
    Thanks Given
    93
    Thanked 111 Times in 44 Posts
    After three attempts at this I finally have a somewhat workable approach. I just got my ALP kit yesterday.

    -Put VHB tape on the mounting surface of the bracket. Make sure there is some space between the tape and the easy bend holes.
    -Put heads in the brackets so the back of the head is a hair past the back edge of the bracket.
    -Put a square of VHB on opposite ends of your 24 inch level, or whatever aid you are going to use.
    -Put the heads on opposite sides so the front is flush with the front of your level device. Use some pressure so they are not loose.
    -Take the protective tape cover off the mounting sides of the brackets. Put your level device under the area you want your heads and apply pressure to the mounting area.
    -Stand back and look at your work. Pull your level device forwards and your heads should slide forward with the bracket in position.
    -Apply some more pressure. If parking outside use some wide packing tape to seal off the bracket from unexpected weather. The first time I did this it rained 10 minutes later for a few hours.

    Hopefully this method will keep two of the axis aligned and all that is left is vertical alignment.

    Suggestions? I just did this half an hour ago so I don't have any results yet.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to hussein For This Useful Post:

    Abarth695 (11-07-2014)

  9. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Shreveport, LA
    Posts
    121
    Thanks Given
    93
    Thanked 111 Times in 44 Posts
    So that method doesn't work as well in real life as it does in my head. I ended up being off center so one was sticking forward more than the other thanks to the curve of the bumper.

    The whole reason I went that way is because I didn't have a drill with me. I picked up a drill for the rear wires, so I revisited the front. I put two screws through the bracket I was happy with, then used it to re-position the second one. I am finally satisfied with the way it looks.

    On the rear I went with VHB tape. There wasn't enough length to use the bracket and I didn't have a saw. I will make a thread with pics soon.
    Last edited by hussein; 11-07-2014 at 05:14 PM. Reason: clarification

  10. #8
    Senior Member TurboDriver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    107
    Thanks Given
    60
    Thanked 68 Times in 35 Posts
    Silicone, the good 50 year window/door construction, in the tube, 100% silicone kind. You can get it in many colors to help match - I prefer black though.

    Use the tape to hold it and then compliment it with silicone to secure it and give it added stability. Once dry the only way to move or remove heads is to cut them out with a knife (the silicone).

    I found it makes them very secure yet removable if needed.
    Last edited by TurboDriver; 11-08-2014 at 09:42 AM.
    Go Like Hell, you'll get there.

    RedLine
    Bel 300
    X50 Black


    ALP Dual

  11. #9
    Senior Member Tman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    1,143
    Thanks Given
    1,485
    Thanked 783 Times in 373 Posts
    I second that ...no wonder they call me Mister Bostichhh

    Quote Originally Posted by TurboDriver View Post
    Silicone, the good 50 year window/door construction, in the tube, 100% silicone kind. You can get it in many colors to help match - I prefer black though.

    Use the tape to hold it and then compliment it with silicone to secure it and give it added stability. Once dry the only way to move or remove heads is to cut them out with a knife (the silicone).

    I found it makes them very secure yet removable if needed.

  12. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    29
    Thanks Given
    1
    Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
    I do t use 3m tape anymore it works for a while but not as good as a true mechanical hold with bolts and nuts. If done right you can remove them and not even know you had them installed


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •